WAXING DETAILS

• It is especially important to thoroughly hot wax new skis in order to fill the porous P-tex as most factory wax is superficial.

• Once the wax is gone you start to abrade the P-Tex surface. The easiest and safest way to wax is to use our waxWHIZard product which ensures that, like hot waxing, a residue of wax remains in the P-tex after a day of skiing. After all, the idea is to maximize your skiing pleasure. No wax- no pleasure! You also eliminate the inherent risks of heat damage which will result from frequent hot waxing.

• To give some perspective to this, my personal practice is to hot wax only when I have re-flattened the base, otherwise I only use the waxWHIZard for waxing. When I use the waxWHIZard I only apply wax for an inch along each edge rather than the whole base because I have found that I only lose wax along the edges, never in the center of the base because I am always on my edges. My advice if you have non black bases is to use a graphited wax and look at your skis at the end of the day. You will quickly learn where the wax has been abraded. Respond based on what you see. That way you don't waste wax or time. This little, thoughtful inspection will also tell you a lot about how you ski and as a result you can improve your technique.

• If and when you hot wax, make sure you know the temperature of your iron ( DON'T let it get over 248 degrees F). Over temperature will seal the P-Tex and it will no longer absorb the wax. Tognar Toolworks (1 800 299-9904) sells an accurate inexpensive (about 10 bucks) bi-metallic thermometer that will let you easily calibrate and monitor your iron.

• Get to know your iron. Using a temperature measuring device, observe the on/off cycle limits of your iron when deciding on a set point. Avoid settings that will allow the temp. to overshoot 248 F on the reheat cycle. Better to play it conservative.

• Wax EACH ski for at least 3 to 4 passes at less than 248 F. for maximum penetration of the wax into the base. Any longer doesn't offer any significant improvement (email me for my technical article on the limitations of hot waxing). Move the iron at a speed that maintains a melted wax trail of about 4 to 6 inches. ALWAYS keep the iron moving.

• Let your skis cool for at least 20 minutes before scraping. Use a sharp plastic scraper moving from tip to tail.

   

• Finish the job by brushing the base with a nylon bristle brush (like the kind you would use to clean your hands). Brushing should be done from tip to tail and continued until there is no more evidence of wax being removed.

   

• Unless you are a racer, use a good quality "universal temperature" wax to keep things simple.

   

  Our next update will discuss "Protecting Your Skis 'til Next Season". Check it out!

   

   

 
    STAY TUNED - leave happy tracks !!

 

---

  (For free collection of "tuning tips", email your request at our "feedback" page link below.)

1. how to judge ski tuning results

2. new skis need tuning before use

3. never file tune your skis

4. base gouge repair

5. easy P-Tex microhair removal

6. better edge tuning

7. dulling tips and tails

8. daily edge maintenance

9. waxing details

10. protect your skis 'til next season

 

---

click on additional pages below for more details:

Page links for PRODUCTS using RAY'S WAY "Line Contact" technology:

 base flattening tool

Page links for INFO on testimonials, background, tuning and ordering: